Champagne

An interview with Richard Bampfield MW
Winner of the 2009 Champagne Ambassador’s Award

How did you first get into wine?

My love of wine started with family holidays in Europe. My dad was particularly partial to wine and, although the wines we drank weren’t great, it was enough to get me interested! From there I decided to study French and spent a year during my university course in Bordeaux. After graduating I went into the retail wine business - wine has remained a hobby and profession of mine ever since.

When did you first fall in love with Champagne?

I think it is hard to be in the wine business without being aware of Champagne. However it was during the early to mid 1980’s when I was working in Manchester for a wine merchant that I got particularly interested. At the time, the centre of Manchester was getting smarter and bigger and, as a result, all the hotels wanted a variety of Champagne for their events and lists. As we were the main supplier, I found access to a lot of different houses and learnt a tremendous amount.
Meeting my wife was also important! As she was a Champagne importer, I got to know Champagne more personally and started to drink it more often at home. I definitely moved from professional enjoyment to personal delight.

How long have you been teaching wine?

I have been self employed and teaching professionally for 10 years – although I have given wine talks throughout my career.

Do you think people’s knowledge of Champagne has improved?

I think Champagne and wine have become much more part of our daily diet and lifestyle. Whether there has been an improvement in knowledge I am not sure. The wine trade is keen to demystify wine and there is a need for communication and education. However I actually think some of the mystique in wine and Champagne may not be such a bad thing. Champagne houses in particular don’t discuss technical information in detail, they prefer to communicate on values, image and mystique, all of which has been extremely successful.
Secondly, most people drink Champagne and wine for enjoyment, they don’t want to sit discussing it. As soon as we start talking technically, most people switch off. People are more interested in how to buy Champagne, which brands to look for and how to maximise its benefit for their lifestyle; the practical aspects, how long it will keep, what glasses etc.

What would be your Desert Island Champagne?

I love the elegance of Champagne and would choose Champagne with a high percentage of Chardonnay. Ideally a Blanc de Blancs Champagne aged between 10 and 15 years old.

What is your favourite food match with Champagne?

With a first course, particularly a fish course, it is delicious. What I adore is scallops, pan fried very simply. It is not only the flavour that compliments them but also the texture which harmonises beautifully with the fizz of Champagne.

What other wine do you like?

One of the great joys of my work is that I get to drink pretty much all wines out there and as a result I enjoy a huge array of different wines and regions. However I first developed a real interest in wine when I was in Bordeaux, as a result I adore red, white and sweet Bordeaux wines. In recent years I am also getting excited about Burgundy. I also adore old Madeira.

What do you think of Champagne’s future in this difficult economic time?

Economic crises are cyclical and, as soon as the economy rebounds in each market, shipments will recover. Long term, I have no doubt that Champagne will be just as strong, quite possibly stronger. How soon that will be depends on the economy. It may be that it bounces back in some areas and less in others, for example the corporate sector. A long term result may well be that our consumption of sparkling wine increases as a whole.

How do you explain the success of Champagne in UK?

I think a lot of it is historical, I know the French and British have had their quarrels but for the most part there has been plenty of trade between us. Historically we have always been quite a big importer of Champagne and we continue to build on that. Britain has also been relatively prosperous over the last 40 years, and Champagne consumption and prosperity are inextricably linked
Additionally, in the age of celebrity worship, Champagne is now synonymous with glamour which helps spread the word. The British have also got quite a discerning palate; we drink wines from all over the world and as a result have a broader knowledge of wine from other countries and can discern quality.

What myth would you most like to dispel?

That Champagne needs to be kept. Too many people think any Champagne will get better with age. If you have a special bottle of Champagne the key is to find a special occasion and drink it. I recommend keeping it for 12 – 24 months but after that it is going to start tasting very mature and I believe most people prefer the taste of younger, vibrant Champagne.

What are your thoughts about wine education?

Fundamentally wine education is really important - for wine professionals starting out in the wine business and also to support our communication with the wine drinking public. However, being a wine expert and a good educator are not always synonymous. That’s why this award is special; it is the only award that recognises quality of education. We have over 70 professional educators who are members of the Association of Wine Educators (AWE), of which I am Chairman, and we do our best to ensure high standards of wine education. We should also not ignore the role played in wine education by sommeliers and shop staff.

Are you pleased to have won the 2009 Champagne Ambassador’s Award?

I am chuffed to bits. I intend to use the award to do more Champagne talks and to raise awareness. It is a great initiative and I would like to see that recognised.